Road Trip, Japan
We have been long overdue for our first to Asia. The pieces finally came together, and what better place to jump in than Japan? There’s a pretty well-trodden path for first-time visitors—and for good reason—so we [mostly] stuck to it. And we, like so many others that came before us, fell in love with the place.
ITINERARY
5 nights in Tokyo at All Day Place Shibuya.
2 nights in Fujikawaguchiko at the Mizno Hotel.
2 nights in Takayama at the Hotel Wood.
1 night in Nanto at Guest House Takazuri-Kita.
5 nights in Kyoto at Kyoto Granbell Hotel.
LOGISTICS
There are far too many cultural nuances, points of etiquette, and logistical notes to list out here. We’ll call out some stuff, but we urge you to consult a Japan travel guidebook for all the details.
If you couldn’t guess, there’s a large language barrier. We did come across some people who spoke English, but for those that didn’t, gesturing and miming usually did the trick. When even that failed, we used Google Translate on our phones. We had multiple conversations with people where we would translate English to Japanese, show them, they would translate Japanese to English on their phone, show us, so on, so forth.
There’s a joke amongst visitors to Japan that you’ll rarely come across public trashcans and thus will have to carry around your trash all day. We found this to be mostly true.
There’s another joke that you’ll rarely come across benches, especially in Tokyo. We also found this to be mostly true.
Japanese bathrooms and toilets are amazing. It’s true. Don’t fear the bidet—embrace it. One thing to keep in mind though: paper towels or other means of drying your hands are rare. We carried around our own hand towels.
We spent a lot of time (and money) in Japan’s convenience stores. We tried every kind of candy we could get our hands on. You can also find tasty meal sets for meals out and about.
We also stopped at nearly every vending machine we walked by. We tried lots of drinks. Our all-time favorite was the CC Lemon Peach soda.
Yes, the intercity trains in Japan are great, and we did take advantage at times, but we enjoyed the flexibility of renting a car for a portion of our trip. (We did not have the car while in Tokyo, where the excellent metro system met all of our needs.)
Beware of temple/shrine fatigue in Kyoto. We were very deliberate about which (and how many) shrines to visit.
Day 1 & 2: May 13 & 14, 2023
Flew Los Angeles to Tokyo.
Checked into our hotel, All Day Place Shibuya.
Quick dinner from Natural Lawson.
Day 3: May 15, 2023
Breakfast at Good Cheese Good Pizza (attached to the restaurant).
Shibuya Walking Tour:
Shibuya Nonbei Yokocho. Cool lantern-lit alleyways for food and drinks.
Miyashita Park & Shopping Center. Rooftop skatepark!
MEGA Don Quijote. Everyone remembers their first Mega Donki experience. We bought Key Lime Pie KitKats. (We suggest reading about why KitKats are so popular in Japan.)
Lunch at Down to Plant. Tasty and friendly service.
21_21 Design Sight. Small but interesting exhibition. Cool architecture.
Dinner at Izakaya Masaka. Fried broccoli, Sichuan fried potatoes, dumplings, grilled rice balls. Delicious.
Shibuya Parco: Mint Shibuya, Nintendo Tokyo, and Pokémon Center. Yes, Rico was a kid in a candy shop.
Night walk around Shibuya to see all the lights. Mesmerizing.
Day 4: May 16, 2023
Breakfast from Natural Lawson.
Asakusa:
Sensō-ji. Vivid orange and red colors. Immaculate details. Beautiful painted ceiling. Picture-perfect pagoda across the way.
Nakamise-dori Street. Chaotic but awesome. (Spoiler: We came back another day to try more food from here. More on that shortly.)
Wandered around.
Lunch at Marugoto Vegan Dining.
The Sumida Hokusai Museum. Enjoyed the little sketchbooks.
Dinner at Vegeater. Pretty good food.
Day 5: May 17, 2023
Breakfast from Natural Lawson.
Kyu Asakura House. We were the first ones there. Peaceful and quiet. Nice garden.
Harajuku:
Cat Street. Trendy shopping street flanked by quirky little streets.
Lunch at Micasadeco & Cafe Jingumae. Popular spot to eat fluffy pancakes. We had to wait a while to get in, and then some more for our pancakes to be ready, but it was worth it!
Takeshita Street. Wacky shopping street. We didn’t even mean to walk down here, but we’re glad we did.
Meiji Jingu. Super peaceful Shinto shrine. We liked the gates and lanterns on the way to the shrine.
Shinjuku:
Omoide Yokochō. Alleyway with food and drinks.
Shinjuku Golden-Gai. Snug alleys lined with taverns.
Sekaido Shinjuku. Multi-level stationery store.
Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. We were here at golden hour. A nice respite.
Dinner at Jikasei MENSHO. The last thing we wanted after a long, hot, humid day was spicy ramen, but my god, it was amazing!
Day 6: May 18, 2023
Breakfast from Natural Lawson.
Asakusa:
Wandered around. We knew we had to come back.
Lunch: “Asakusa Feast”
Naruto Taiyaki: Premium Custard Taiyaki. Delicious.
Ginkado: Strawberry & Cream Mochi. Delicious.
Kibidango Azuma: Rice Dumpling Skewers. Not for us.
Funawa Nakamise: Adzuki Bean Paste Pancake Sandwich. Also not for us.
Hatoya’s Vegan Fruit Sandwiches: Strawberry & Cream. Delicious and refreshing.
Asakusa Kagetsudō: Melonpan filled with Vanilla Ice Cream. Delicious and refreshing.
Ichiban-ya: Sesame Rice Crackers. They were OK.
Akihabara:
Retro video game stores: Friends, BEEP, Super Potato.
BIG MAGIC (trading card store) in Akihabara Radio Kaikan.
Dinner at Katsumidori Seibu Shibuya. Tasty conveyor belt sushi.
Day 7: May 19, 2023
Breakfast from Natural Lawson.
Snack from Burdigala at the train station.
Tōkaidō Bullet Train from Toyko to Mishima.
Picked up our rental car from Toyota Rent a Car.
Drove from Mishima to Fujikawaguchiko via Route 139 and Route 71. Even the boring, plain parts of the Japanese countryside are somehow beautiful.
Lunch from Natural Lawson.
Checked into the Mizno Hotel.
Dinner at the Mizno Hotel. Japanese pickles and asparagus, fresh veggies and waffled potatoes, mushroom soup, tofu with red sauce and radish, shaved ice, mushroom and mashed potatoes, strawberry matcha tart, ice cream mochi. Our stomachs almost exploded.
Day 8: May 20, 2023
Breakfast at the Mizno Hotel.
Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba. Traditional Japanese village museum. Had some ice cream from a small food stand.
Stopped above the Koan Camping Ground to try to catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji. Saw partial views.
Stopped by the Motosuko Camping Ground to try again. Partial views, again.
Private Rooftop bath at the Mizno Hotel. Partial views of Mt. Fuji.
Dinner from Lawson.
Day 9: May 21, 2023
Breakfast at the Mizno Hotel.
Chureito Pagoda. It was cloudy when we woke up, so we figured we were going to have to leave without having seen a full view of Mt. Fuji. But just as we arrived here as a last ditch effort, the clouds parted as we raced up the [many] stairs to the top. We won’t even try to describe the view as we emerged at the top; just look at the pictures.
Lunch from a rest stop.
Tsumago-juku. Beautiful historic town. Ate chestnut ice cream from a local shop.
Magomejuku. Another beautiful historic town. (If we had more time, we would have done the little hike between the two towns.)
Checked into Hotel Wood in Takayama.
Dinner at Sushi Dining Nob. Veggie California roll, avocado tempura rolls, garden veggies with mayo roll. Really good.
Day 10: May 22, 2023
Breakfast at Hotel Wood.
Takayama Jinya. Historic government building.
Walked around Takayama’s Sanmachi Suji. Edo-period streets.
Takayama Retro Museum. Stumbled on this. Really fun and kitschy. Got to play on a Super Famicom.
Notoya. Incense shop.
Lunch at Flore. Good food and friendly service.
Sakarayama Hachimanga Shrine. Last minute call to check this out. It was really cool. Cozy and wooded.
Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaiken and Sakurayama Nikkokan. Saw lots of the famous festival floats.
Dinner from FamilyMart.
Day 11: May 23, 2023
Breakfast at Hotel Wood.
Shirakawa-go. Historic remote mountain village. Parked above the town to see the view. Crowded spot, but nice for a wander. Grabbed ice cream from a shop.
World Heritage Suganuma Gassho-zukuri Village. UNESCO World Heritage Site with Gassho-style houses. Much quieter than Shirakawa-go. Beautiful views of the Shō River.
Lunch from FamilyMart.
Ainokura Gassho-zukuri Village. Quant mountain village with Gassho-stlye houses. It was nice, but not as impressive as the other two. The best part was walking up to the viewpoint above the town.
Checked into Guest House Takazuri-Kita in Toyama.
Dinner from FamilyMart.
Day 12: May 24, 2023
Breakfast from FamilyMart.
World Heritage Suganuma Gassho-zukuri Village. Quick return on our way out of the area.
Lunch at a rest stop.
Visiting this town was a completely last minute call, and mainly designed as a way to not get to Kyoto too early for our check-in. But it ended up being a really special stop. We were the only Western tourists we saw there.
Himure Hachiman Shrine. Shinto shrine.
Miho Museum. We didn’t have a lot of time before close, so we quickly made our way through. Amazing surroundings and architecture.
Checked into Kyoto Granbell Hotel.
Dinner at Uno Yukiko. Tan Tan Ramen and Japanese marble soda.
Day 13: May 25, 2023
Breakfast at Kyoto Granbell Hotel.
Fushimi Inari Taisha. Shinto Shrine famous for its 1,000+ torii. We got here first thing in the morning to avoid crowds.
Another way to avoid crowds: walk all the way to the summit of Mt. Inari!
Nintendo Headquarters. Can’t go in, but we admired from the outside.
Lunch at Botanic Coffee Kyoto.
Walked Philosopher’s Path. Peaceful and quaint.
Kiso Artech Ginkakuji Showroom. Home goods store. We bought chopsticks for a souvenir.
Higashiyama Jisho-Ji. Buddist temple. Insanely busy, but we did our best to enjoy.
Popsicles from Kiharu. So nice on a hot, humid day.
Dinner at Omen Shijo Ponto-cho. Veggie tempura and udon noodles.
Walked along the Kamo River after sunset.
Day 14: May 26, 2023
Breakfast at Kyoto Granbell Hotel.
Sanneizaka. Cute hilly street.
Kiyomizu-dera. Buddist temple. Avoided the worst of the crowds by going in the morning. APpreciated the view of the little pagoda tucked into the hills in the distance.
Self-serve pottery shop. Stumbled on this. So cool. Bought a small vase. Bring cash!
Sanjūsangen-dō. Buddist temple known for 1,001 life-sized statues.
POJ Studio. Home goods store. Bought an incense plate.
Lunch at Waco Crepes. Delicious.
Mochi from Meigetsudo.
Dinner at Hyssop. The highlight was dessert: strawberry shaved ice with mascarpone, biscuits, and tea jello.
Walked along Takase River and Ponto-cho.
Day 15: May 27, 2023
Breakfast at Kyoto Granbell Hotel.
Drove from Kyoto to Nara.
Nara:
Nara Park. Famous for its deer.
Isuien Garden. Had a snack at Sanshu-tei.
Tōdai-ji. Buddist temple with a GIANT Buddha.
Lunch at Mizuya Chaya. Udon noodles with fried tofu. Picturesque surroundings. And delicious! Fell in love with Japanese seven spice.
Walked around near Hōkan-ji. Buddist temple. Cool streets nearby with great views of the pagoda. It was too crowded and the light wasn’t right, so we decided to return the next day.
Dinner at RECIPE All Day Cafe.
Day 16: May 28, 2023
Up early to see the area around Hōkan-ji without crowds.
Breakfast at Kyoto Granbell Hotel.
Ryōan-ji. Buddist temple. Got there before the crowds and enjoyed the peaceful rock garden.
Kinkaku-ji. Buddist temple. Insane crowds.
Saga Toriimoto. Car-free area with traditional homes. We parked up the street, and inadvertently got swept up in the parking lot attendant’s family’s rush to see a local festival (which we had no idea was happening). Despite the language barrier, we joined them for the [unexpected] festivities.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. Nice, but really crowded. The rural area north of here was really pretty and quiet though.
Lunch at Dangoro. Fried tofu hot soba noodles.
Otagi Nenbutsuji. Buddist temple. Smaller and less crowded. Loved all the mossy stone heads.
Dinner at Gyosa ChaoChao (Shijo-Kawaramachi). Tasty dumplings.
Don Quijote. Bought so much candy to bring back home.
Day 17: May 29, 2023
Breakfast at Kyoto Granbell Hotel.
Lunch at a rest stop.
Wakayama:
Shirasaki Observatory. Killed time before getting to the airport.
Dropped car off at Kansei Airport.
Flew Osaka to Los Angeles.