Croatia (Part 02): The Island of Korcula
After four days in Dubrovnik, we picked up a car and set off for Korčula. We broke up the drive with a stop in Ston, a small town at the base of Croatia’s Pelješac Peninsula famous for its defensive walls that crawl up the surrounding hills. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to climb the walls, but we strolled the town and grabbed lunch at Stagnum (spaghetti Bolognese, cheese pizza).
We caught our first views of the picture perfect Korčula on the car ferry from Orebić. The old town is set on an oval-shaped peninsula, bisected longways like a spine by its main drag and filled in with narrow side streets running off the spine down to the waterfront. The town is surrounded by an idyllic pedestrian walkway around the edge of the town and a perfect little beach (Puntin) on the northern side (where we took dips almost every evening). We stayed in two Airbnbs (here and here) in the northwest of the old town.
You can appreciate views of the town in a few different spots. One evening we walked out to Svetog Nikole for a golden hour glimpse. Our favorite view was at the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, which made the short climb well worth it.
The island of Korčula is blessed with some beautiful beaches, of which Pupnatska Luka is the most popular. We arrived early one morning to grab a good spot and enjoyed a lazy beach day (with a just-OK, but certainly convenient, lunch at Konoba Mijo). Afterward we took a loop drive through Brna, Prižba, and the mountainous interior of the island back to Korčula.
The highlight of our trip was a full-day yacht excursion to the island of Mljet with Korčula Adventures. We arrived in the town of Pomena and quickly made our way through the forest into the national park. After visiting St. Mary’s Church and Monastery, we swam in the warm, clear waters of Malo Jezero. Back on the boat, we anchored in a private bay for a delicious homemade lunch (tuna, salad, cold cuts, cheese, fruit) and a swim in the open sea. Not even Britt’s Mom (who hasn’t swum in deep water since a near-drowning incident when she was younger) could hold back—with the whole family cheering her on, she bravely took the leap into the aqua water!
The trend of delicious food continued in Korčula. Dinner was had at Restaurant Filippi (burrata, truffle pasta, cheesecake, chocolate cake), Nonno (pasta with beef ragu, pesto pasta, goat cheese and bread), and Konoba Maha in Žrnovo (truffle pasta, tomato pasta, cheese board) (beautiful countryside setting). Slastičarna Kiwi was our favorite gelato spot in town (peanut, stracciatella, farm cheese, mixed berries).
Our flight back to London on our last day was later in the evening, so we stopped in Cavtat on the way to the airport to stroll the shore walk around the peninsula, grab a lazy lunch at ROKOTIN (ćevapi, vegetarian spaghetti carbonara), indulge in one last gelato from Paradiso (cookies, Oreo), and take in the energy ahead of that afternoon’s World Cup final against France.
Unfortunately the game didn’t go to plan, but the result couldn’t put a damper on the wonderful trip we just had in one of our favorite countries in Europe. We were so glad to share the memories with family, and though our fifth trip to Croatia isn’t likely to come next year, we know we’ll be back sometime soon!