Two Weeks in Bosnia & Croatia: Split and environs

Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas

We dropped our car off in Mostar and hopped on an Autopoduzeće Imotskibus bus for the 5-hour ride to Split. (Most car rental agencies won’t allow you to pick up a car in Bosnia or Croatia and drop it off in the other.) The ride went by surprisingly quick, especially on the gorgeous seaside stretch from Makarska. On arrival in Split, we strolled from the bus stop to our Airbnb, walking the Riva Promenade along the way. After recharging with a banana split from BananaSplit in Split, we set off to see what the city had to offer.

Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas

We oriented ourselves with panoramic views of the city from the Matejuška jetty, finally feeling a sea breeze after those inland hot days in Mostar. The old town beckoned, so we obliged. The old town is dominated by the ruined Diocletian's Palace, anchored by the Peristyle, the palace’s main square. After hanging out for a bit to people watch, we climbed the tower of nearby St. Domnius Cathedral for its dramatic views.

Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas

Our second day started with a climb up Marjan Hill for views of the city, sea, and mountains. We walked down the west side of the hill down to Kašjuni Beach where we rented beach chairs, grabbed an easy lunch from Joe’s Beach Lounge & Bar (which, yes, we ate from our beach chairs), and took dips in the Adriatic between naps.

Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas

We continued the standard of great food in Split with dinners at Pizzeria Portas (bacon and onion pizza), Bokeria (truffle cheeseburger, ravioli, lavender cheesecake, chocolate éclair), and Villa Spiza (pork and truffle pasta, tomato mozzarella pasta). Villa Spize, a cozy family-owned hole in the wall, was especially noteworthy for its atmosphere and the fresh small menu of high-quality dishes.

Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Split, Croatia | Sea of Atlas

We spent most of our third day outside of Split. Many bus companies make the 30-minute trip to and from the town of Trogir, whose attractive old town is set on a small rectangular mile. You can walk from one end of the other—long ways—in about 5 minutes and it only takes an hour or two to walk along every street. Take breaks with nice views from Kula Kamerlengo and the tower of St. Lawrence Cathedral (check out City Hall’s cute clock tower across the square) and lunch at Konoba Trs (chicken with baked gnocchi, truffle, and prosciutto pasta).

Trogir, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Trogir, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Trogir, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Trogir, Croatia | Sea of Atlas
Trogir, Croatia | Sea of Atlas

Stay tuned for the last leg of the trip: six days on the heavenly island of Hvar!